6" x 12" stainless steel tile

Tile Size	6" x 12"
Coverage (sq. in.)	72
Backing Type	N/A

Frequently Asked Questions:

1. Should I grout Stainless Steel Tile?

That depends on where you install the tile. In most cases, grout is not required. It is only required if you are installing in an area that gets soaked frequently (like in a shower or outside). In those cases, you must grout to protect the underlayment and the adhesive. For other locations, even those that get somewhat wet, like behind the sink, you do not need to grout. In those cases, it depends on the look you are going for. Some people choose to grout when they are mixing stainless tiles with other media, such as stone, ceramic or glass, and they want a more homogenous look. If you do decide to grout, there is a wide range of grout that can be used with stainless steel tile. For most applications, standard un-sanded grout is used. Use a grout with latex added. In areas that are going to see a lot of dirt or grease (like in a commercial kitchen or public restroom), consider using a urethane or epoxy grout. They are more resistant to staining, easier to clean and do not require sealing. As for the color to use, that is a matter of taste. We like Deloreon Gray, which can be found in bags and in tubes to be installed with a grout gun.

2. There are 2 choices for backers - What is a backer and which one do I need?

When the tile is formed, it creates a void on the back of the tile. By applying a backer inside this void, the tile gains added rigidity and provides a suitable surface to bond to the substrate. The hardboard is the standard backer and works great in most situations. It is not affected by occasional splashings, like behind a sink. We use a 3/16" thick hardboard which stays mostly hidden by the the stainless steel tile's fully-formed factory edge. It has the lowest profile, as it makes a tile that is about ¼” thick. It installs easily using a construction adhesive similar to Liquid Nails. If you are going to use the tile in an area that gets soaked frequently, like in a shower or outside, you will need to use the Fiberock backer. It works great in areas that see a lot of moisture. Because it is a little thicker and makes a tile that is about 3/8” thick, it is sometimes chosen when mixing stainless tiles with other types of tile, such as stone, ceramic or glass, to better match their thickness. However, because Fiberock is thicker, it does protrude from the back side of the tile and is NOT hidden by the stainless steel tile's factory edge. It is typically installed with Thinset, like regular tile. To summarize, the hardboard backer is 3/16" thick, makes a 1/4" thick tile, and stays mostly hidden behind the tile's fully-formed factory edge. It's our most popular backer and is used in most situations. The Fiberock backer is 1/4" thick, makes a 3/8" thick tile, and because it's thicker, it does protrude from the backside of the tile and is NOT hidden by the stainless steel tile's fully-formed factory edge.

3. What kind of steel are the tiles made of?

We only use U.S. produced stainless steel. Our steel is a ferritic stainless (430 series) that offers a wide range of properties that make it suitable for decorative and functional walls and backsplashes. It is one of the most common stainless steels used for decorative and functional purposes (like commercial sinks, outdoor gas grills, architectural trim, etc.) There is an ongoing debate on what type of stainless steel is best for a backsplash. The two most common types of stainless are 300 series and 400 series. While the 300 series offers slightly better corrosion resistance (primarily because of its nickel content), 400 series offers excellent corrosion resistance and we have never had a complaint of corrosion with our standard 430 stainless. It has a couple of other advantages that make 430 stainless our choice. It is a little less expensive because it uses molybdenum for corrosion resistance and ours is annealed to further improve corrosion resistance. 300 series is more expensive because nickel is not a raw material that the United States is a significant producer. Because the nickel is imported from competitor countries (like Russia and China), it adds to the cost of production and comes with a political cost. A further benefit of 430 series steel is that magnets will stick to it. That makes sticking your menus and notes on the backsplash with a magnet possible, just like on your refrigerator (also usually made with 430 series stainless).

4. Why are the tiles shipped with a plastic film?

The PVC film that is on the face of the tile serves an important function during production, shipping, and installation. It protects the brushed finish of the tile and reduces the chance of nicks and scratches. It is recommended that the film is left on until after the tile is installed. Once the tile is adhered to the wall and cured, the PVC can be peeled off. There will be a little adhesive residue on the tile and it will need to be cleaned. We recommend a cleaner and polish combination like Sheila Shine, but most stainless steel cleaners and polishers will work just fine.

5. How long will it take to ship my order?

We strive to ship all orders as soon as possible, usually within 3-5 business days. All fiberock-backed tiles and Accent/3D Design tiles will take an additional 3-7 business days for processing. For very large orders, it may take longer to produce and ship.

6. What are the installation instructions?

Installation instructions are included in every order shipment. Cutting: Tile Wet Saw with new Diamond Blade cutting through metal side FIRST. For other saws, please see below. Adhesive: PL Premium Construction Adhesive Fast Grab by Loctite highly recommended for Hardboard-backed tiles. Grout: Not required, unless in highly wet areas (showers, outside, etc). Non-sanded grout ONLY and must be sealed.

Tips: Pure Acetone will remove any adhesives that accidentally got onto the metal tile fronts during installation. If Acetone is used, wait until it has dried, and follow with Stainless Steel Cleaner. As always, use only clean (without sand or debris), soft cloths to wipe/clean stainless steel.

Safety: Tiles are SHARP and can easily cut! Please be careful when handling the tiles, acetone, adhesives, grout, saws and more – make sure to wear all safety gear needed to protect yourself during the installation and handling of these materials and tools.

IMPORTANT: Stainless Steel Tiles have a grain. Be careful to align the grain of the tile in the same direction, or alternate square tiles every other tile to make a checkerboard effect. You can see through the blue PVC to align the grain.

Installation Instructions: Stainless steel tiles are installed very similarly to regular tile. The principles for design and layout are very similar. They are cut with a tile wet saw using a diamond blade. It is best to start with a fresh blade. Cheaper blades tend not to last as long. If you have quite a bit of cutting to do, we recommend a high quality blade. Cutting without water may cause discoloration of the tile. Hardboard backed tiles are installed with construction adhesive. Many varieties are available. Liquid Nails is the most common, but we prefer PL Premium Construction Adhesive Fast Grab by Loctite. It is a urethane adhesive that cures in the presence of moisture, and once cured, is not affected by moisture. If you are installing Fiberock backed tiles, you can use any conventional mastic appropriate for the substrate to which you are tiling. Thinset is the most common mastic, however there are many others. Many people choose to install the tile without spacing and do not grout. If you don’t grout, consider Painting Light Colored Walls BLACK. You can also just put a small dab of black paint where the corners of the tile meet. This will prevent any of the substrate peeking through. (Most people never notice.) You may choose to grout if you are mixing steel tiles with other mediums (like stone or ceramic) and want to have a consistent look. If you are installing in a wet environment (such as in a shower or outside), you must grout. If you grout, choose a non-sanded grout. You must seal the grout to prevent wiping a hazy film from the grout onto the tile when cleaning. Consider using a urethane or epoxy grout in more challenging environments (commercial). Home Depot offers Fusion Pro, a single component grout that works well. These grouts resist staining and do not require sealing. A final tip on grouting; you can float the grout, but we recommend applying the grout directly to the joint with a grout bag and dress with a finger. Grout is also available in tubes that can be used in a caulk gun. When cutting tiles with a wet saw, be sure that the Diamond Blade Cuts Through the Metal Side of the tile FIRST. With almost all wet saws, this means that the metal face is UP when cutting. However, in rare cases, we have seen wet saws configured differently. This is why it’s very important to make sure when your blade cuts through the tile, it (the blade) cuts through the steel side FIRST. Metal tiles can also be cut using a hack saw, jig saw with a tungsten carbide fine tooth blade (22 teeth or more per inch), band saw with a fine-tooth blade or a Dremel with a Cut-Off wheel. These non- wetted cutting tools are best used on cuts that will be covered or concealed. For example, if you need to cut a notch out of a tile around a light switch, you can cut without water because any roughness or discoloration should be covered by a wall plate. Holes can be drilled using a high-speed drill or hole saw. When installing 1”X12” and 2.5”X12” tiles, make sure the tile is straight when installing. During shipping, the tile can sometimes get a slight bow. Before installing, use your hands to slightly bend the tiles back into a flat shape. Trial fit the tile on the wall before applying adhesive. For best results, the substrate must be smooth and even. Our tiles are shipped with a protective PVC film covering. The PVC is there to keep the tile from being scratched while being shipped and handled. If you remove it prior to installation, exercise great care not to scratch it. The PVC will continue to protect the tile during installation and make cleanup easier. However, you will want to peel the PVC loose from all edges and corners so that when the tile is butted together, the PVC is not trapped and remain in the joint. The PVC may leave a little residue on the tile but can be removed easily with stainless steel cleaner. You may find scratches or scuff marks on the PVC film when you receive them. This means it did its job during manufacturing and shipping, and the tile should be unblemished. If there appears to be a scuff or scratch mark on the tile, simply rub the mark with your thumb in the direction of the grain.

IMPORTANT: Stainless steel tiles have a grain. Be careful to align the grain of the tile in the same direction, or alternate square tiles every other tile to make a checkerboard effect. You can see through the blue PVC to align grain.

Stainless Steel Tile Care and Cleaning Tips: Stainless steel is easy to clean. Clean with a mild soap and warm water followed by a clean water rinse. Always use a clean, soft cloth that’s free of any sand or debris. For best results, we recommend a stainless steel cleaner and polish combination. Many varieties are readily available. Most Stainless Steel products will scratch from everyday use; however, these scratches will blend over time to create a unique finish or patina. Because a backsplash is not touched nearly as frequently as a typical appliance, the risk of scratching is greatly reduced. To ensure a long lasting pristine finish:

• Do not rub with steel wool (wire wool) or abrasive cleaners 
  

• Do not rub against the grain
  

• Do not use bleach or hydrochloric based cleaning products
  

CAUTION …. SHARP EDGES

Please note that all fiberock-backed tiles are considered custom orders and therefore cannot be returned. Please see our return policy for additional information on returns.